Travelblography by Jason Ricks

The Elephant of Chiang Mai

There are certain small but surreal events that occur when traveling through countries for the first time that are very hard to explain at a later juncture; moreover, it's particularly difficult to contextualise regarding my frame of mind and hence avoid the "you had to be there" scenario, nevertheless I'll give this a go.

It had been a long journey north from Ko Phi Phi earlier that day; three flights, various taxi rides interspersed between each stopover, all taking me to my final destination, The Ramming Lodge in Chiang Mai. The hotel was very nice, which is a rather bland term, but it was just that, clean and nice. In fact, it was more boutique than hotel and for £20 a night, a real steal. I retired to my room for an hour or so, finger punched the remote control and before I knew it found myself immersed in a light hearted, soppy film on HBO. Life was altogether 'normal' and my surroundings felt comfortable and familiar.

I decided to take a stroll; hunger was getting the better of me (again). I gravitated towards the local street vendor outside the lodge and tucked into some Banana Rottee and raisins, thats a fatty pancake cooked in oil and butter to you and me. Nothing out of the ordinary, just your regular tourist street scene, internet cafes hogging both sides of the street, music blaring out of the bars further on down, coupled with the notorious and gracious calling of the Thai bar girls "hello...welcome,welcome!", the cooing just faintly brushing past my ears as I rolled on down the street. This was like most tourist hangouts I'd seen in Thailand and so I decided to do a quick tour of the surrounding blocks to get my bearings for the next day whilst contemplating grabbing a quick beer and game of pool on the way back.

Head down, focused on spearing each carefully squared slice of banana Rottee with my makeshift spoon come toothpick, my attention was suddenly drawn to a heavy figure just to my left; a quick look up was to reveal a sight that both surprised and delighted me, an elephant of about 6 foot in stature standing in the middle of an alleyway. My immediate reaction was to burst out laughing; we were in the middle of Chiang Mai city, I had an internet cafe to my left full of travellers furiously typing away emails, whilst to my right a row of retail stores, and yet there stood this elephant, for all the world as if it actually belonged in the alleyway and it was I that had intruded. There were a group of people standing around the elephant chatting away in a manner that suggested the elephant far from being the main attraction was actually just one of the gang, hanging out and catching up on gossip...and then before I had time to shoot more photos, the group said there goodbyes and dispersed. I could have sworn I saw nelly give a considered wave of the trunk as he sauntered off.

I later discovered whilst in conversation on a flight to Laos, that the elephant is infact something of a icon in Chiang Mai. Moreover it can be regularly seen wandering around the city with its Thai owners. I was also informed the cheeky fella has a flashing light hanging from his rear end, one can only assume this was not of his choosing but instead intended to give moped traffic fair warning when looking to dodge and weave through the streets of Chang Mai at great speed.

Orange, Gold and the Colours of Chiang Mai

Conscious of time marching ever onwards, I was keen to leave the sunny shores of southern Thailand and make my way to Chang Mai, the 'Rose of the North'. I decided to try out the sea plane as an experience and duly arranged an early morning pick up with my very helpful hotel owner 'John'. (This wasn't his real name of course, however having a Western name enables him to circumvent the otherwise inevitable five minutes of playing happy host to some well meaning Westerner trying to get their tongue around the Thai vernacular....and of course it helps those of certain dispositions feel more 'at home'.)

So there I was, 8.45am racing across the coast of Thailand in a long tail boat towards the floating pier where I was to be picked up by sea plane and taken to Phuket; this destination being my short stop over before surging back up the spine of the country to Bangkok and then finally Chang Mai. I couldn't resist standing at the front and top of the boat, rope in hand and fastened to the bow. The sun was beating down and I was master of my own destiny....for a brief few minutes, until the boat skipper pointed to various gaping holes in the side of the island we were duly rounding. They were from the Tsunami and were clearly of such howling magnitude you could only wince, try and then try again to imagine the violent force and sheer mass of the thundering waves that thrashed this part of the region...and so it was, how I was reminded all of a sudden, that in the grand scheme of things how little control we all have over our destiny when confronted with the unstoppable onward cycle of mother nature.

The flight itself was a fantastic experience and offered a privileged birds eye view of Phi Phi island as well as other smaller, but unidentifiable island outcrops. I met an Israeli gentleman on the plane who was on holiday; taking time off from being the Hotel manager for the holiday Inn in Krakov, Poland. An Israeli, vacationing in Thailand (with a leather briefcase), who's lives in Poland.. that's what I love about travelling, the opportunity to meet such a wide variety of people with such different life stories. I subtley suggested he had an interesting story to share of how that came to be, but unfortunately we didn't get much time to converse.

..and so on again from Phuket to Bangkok; with a short few hours to hunt out a great lunch I settled on a restaurant in China town. I couldn't go wrong...pan fried prawns and asapargus, seafood soup and some barbeque pork; it was authentic, spicy and even after five days, left me with an altogether new appreciation for Thai cuisine.

Arriving to Chang Mai late at night was no problem; the juganaut that is the tourism industry in Thailand is so well oiled it's almost too easy, and in some respects takes away from any chance of having a good storyline for Tales of the Unexpected. The said scenario; you arrive to the airport, you are presented with a whole row of travel agents before and after the arrivals gate, all of which have a somewhat blindingly impressive array of hotel and tours on offer, to which you can be taken to by the battallion of taxi drivers waiting outside....but this battallion has sub divisions of course..you could opt for the top guns who have their shiny new silver taxis, or, if you're feeling a little more social put yousrelf in the hands of the mini bus drivers, or, if you're feeling a little more relaxed and have time on your hands, you could opt for the local Bus service...and at bus stations you can add the Tuk Tuks to the list...so it goes on. It's impressively efficient, so much so in fact I dare anyone to come to Thailand and get lost with no where to stay for just one night, it's nigh on impossible, even if you tried to get lost, the Thais are so friendly and so hospitable I'd put good money on you being found and returned home just in time for a foot massage.

The next day, Chang Mai offered me the opportunity for exploring some of it's most sacred and revered temples, most of which date back to the 13th and 14th Century. It was during this exploration of the temple sites that I stumbled upon a monastic school for children and was to be once again immersed in the beautiful orange colours of the traditional Thai buddhist attire.

The mobile phone was a popular carry around at the Monastery I visited in Chang Mai.

Young buddhist monks at leisure.

There's little doubt who this is for and what 'they' have to do.

The golden temple at centre stage as well as the surrounding statues and ornaments made for a beautiful setting.

The temples of Chang Mai tend to be stylised in a different manner to those of Bangkok and other parts of Thailand. The archirecture favours wooden structures and within them carvings of various shapes and sizes from the 13th and 14th century.

Sunshine and Blue waters - Ko Phi Phi

Long tail boats, Ko Phi Phi Don beach, Southern Thailand.

Boat trip to Ko Phi Phi Leh.

Ko Phi Phi Leh, a blue lagoon that suffers such a daily deluge of package tours one wonders how long such natural beauty will last.

Colours of Bangkok

This photo was taken on Th Sanamchai, the main road running adjacent to the Grand Palace in Bangkok; the former royal residence of King Bhumibol Adulyadej. At first I was struck by the monks calm and considered pose; quietly sitting on the bench waiting I presume for the bus given the few measured glances down the street. The passing technicolor traffic, particularly large red (and noisy) buses provided a compelling canvas against which to paint an entirely different photographic portrait than would otherwise have been possible.

Upon later reflection, for me this photo encapsulates the stark juxtaposition of cultures standing side by side in modern day Thai society. The coming together of ancient rituals, history and rich heritage, all of which are constantly colliding with the moderm ambitions of a technologically advanced nation seeking economic success. Bangkok in particular is a wonderul example of this colourful and intriguing interchange of the past, present and future.

The golden reclining Buddha, Wat Pho, was something of a marvel; 46m in length, 15m high and finished off in gold leaf, its an impressive and imposing figure, something which adds to the sense of humility you feel when slowly pacing around the temple.

The streets of China town are awash with colour and life; from the constant stream of technicolour traffic to the lively sound of the numerous street vendors plying their daily trade, China town is a full frontal engagement with your senses.

Street vendors hard at work; a large percentage of out door market trade in the city appears to revolve around fresh produce, particularly fruit and vegetables.

There is colour at every corner, whether the blue hues of an old garage playing host to a street tarot reader, to the heart warming orange starburst of the buddhist monks' robes; a walk through bangkok takes you on a rollercoaster ride through the colour spectrum and back again.

You'll just as easily stumble upon someone meditating by the sides of a canal as you will encounter a lively conversation and debate being played out on the pavements and doorways of Bangkok.

One night in Bangkok

My first night in Bangkok was full of expectation and although not the craziest night out I’ve had, the city itself didn't disappoint. I was fortunate enough for my arrival in Bangkok to coincide with the full month of November, and consequently the annual 'Loy Krathong' festival; Loy meaning to float, whilst Krathong refers to a lotus shaped vessel made of banana leaves used to provide flotation for the various offerings. The Krathong itself typically contains a candle, three joss-sticks, flowers and some coins; it's said by those in the know that this ritual dates back to Brahmin times when people would offer their thanks to the Goddess of water. In today’s terms and hence all the more marketable to tourists eager to join in the event, the ritual is intended as a celebration of the New Year. Setting alight the candles on my Krathong and releasing it into the river, it is said, will wash away all my sins and bad luck. Sounded good to me. I released my Krathong into the river, alongside several other would be European 'sinners' and watched it float away. Making special wishes and looking hopeful to a year of good luck I was already beginning to feel happy with myself when, before I'd even had time to take a photo of the big occasion, my Krathong was swallowed up and drowned by a local river boat pulling back into the dock. So much for watching it join up with the merging flotilla of candle lit vessels; well, at least the effort was there.. China town was a hub of neon lucidity and ultra tacky plastic splendor; the only distraction from the ever present and somewhat entrancing lights overhead were the inviting aromas wafting across the street; street vendors at every corner were busy boiling, grilling and peeling all manner of food; all the more impressive considering they’d also have time to tout for your business as you went past. Numerous alleyways here and there crossed my path as I kept walking on through, so much seemed hidden away, an invitation to get lost so late at night wasn’t appealing. I eventually gave in to my hunger and found myself a little restaurant that seemed popular with the locals and tucked into some Thai noodle soup. Steamed Tofu, beef and Chilli noodles, a perfect pick me up and big help ward off the Jet Lag for a few more hours. Rushing through the streets of Bangkok in the back of a motorized TukTuk is a real thrill; compounded by the fact that my driver was taking clear pleasure in racing other motorists, I had little choice but to hang on and keep smiling. I had no doubt the 200 DB (£3) I had been quoted was at least double the usual fare but had little energy to deliver my best expression of disbelief and chose instead to focus on enjoying the ride. I was heading to Pat Pong Road; the red light district of Bangkok. "A place needed to be seen to be believed"; well, I was up for seeing all aspects of Bangkok, the good, the bad, and the ugly. Understanding and offering cultural insight into the underbelly of the beast that is Pat Pong Road and all that it represents would require a real in-depth knowledge of Thai society, culture and its recent socioeconomic transformation . All of which I don’t possess, so I’ll stick to some plain and simple observation from my brief walk through the road. What you have is essentially a tightly grouped gaggle of small go-go bars and clubs offering you all manner of sex shows and ‘entertainment’. Mix this with hilarious glammed up ladyboys strutting their stuff (easy to spot despite what they say) outside club entrances and finally add an outrageous assortment of a la carte ‘menus’ `(of the ping pong variety) and you get the idea. I’m sure ‘Mr Moustachio from the airport would provide an alternative account of the Pat Pong experience, but for me, a simple walk past and thru was enough. The road itself was packed with young and old tourists, no doubt showing the same intrigue and astonishment as myself as we made our way through the open air market that was flanked on both sides by the bars. I was actually keen to photograph this aspect of Bangkok, however in between the jostling tourists passing thru and the various groups of ‘old European boys’ out for a so called good night, there was unfortunately neither time or opportunity. I exited the end of the market and began a long trek back to my hotel; a cold mojito had my name on it.

Touch Down in Bangkok

Bangkok's new International airport, Suvarnabhumi, is just reaching it's 1 Year anniversary; and to be fair, you'd probably need the equivalent amount of time to traverse the full length of it's spaghetti junction style of terminals and abundant architectural space. A truly impressive construction.

My flight from London was without incident and unfortunately also anything resembling a good sleep; " push through the tiredness" tended to be the most common response from friends regarding a visit to Thailand. My body's refusal to recharge on the plane hadn't done me any favours but I was too excited to even think about sleep. This was three weeks in South East Asia; Thailand, Cambodia and Vietnam. With only a general sense of direction and a flimsy inter country route planned (courtesy of my old friend the Lonely Planet), the only certainty I had was that parts of this region offered unrivalled opportunity for travel photography.

Straight out the exit and ready for taxi negotiation... sign language Thai style; for my part, defunct vocabulary that I rush revised on the plane and more than slightly impaired by the lack of any persuasive Thai vocab, I found myself enthusiastically gesturing disapproval at offered rates, without any real idea as to whether I was on for a bargain. A few smiles and token waves of the hand later and I'd found myself an 'agreeable rate'.... albeit to the disapproval of a large European man, sporting a champion moustache and standing just within earshot of my stilted conversation. "where are you off to?" he asked " Hilton" I replied...'how much should I be paying?" "ah your rate is fine, but the hotel is no good". "oh. how comes?" I enquired despondently. "You can't take any Thai women there." came the reply, deadpan, as if this was the only criteria one should consider when reviewing the suitability of accommodation. More amused than alarmed, this guy and his attitude brought back memories of similar encounters in Cuba the year before; a particular story comes to mind of meeting a middle aged German guy and his hired Cuban tour guide, whose apparent speciality was a slight variation on your average 3 week package holiday. (I'll write that story up one day..)

I managed to secure myself a ride into Bangkok capital in a pink taxi cab, adorned from head to toe in kitsch stickers of pussycats and rainbows.  so far, so good, so surreal; jet lag kicking in all the way down the concrete highway, down past the super structure billboards for Hitachi, Samsung and other consumer brand giants of the region. The sun was making valiant efforts to break through the smog and provided for a warm and cosy welcome into the otherwise bleak looking downtown financial district of Bangkok.